Monthélie may fly under the radar, but in the right hands it can deliver Pinot Noir of real refinement. Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey’s holding in the 1er Cru La Riotte lies on classic limestone and clay, producing fruit that is notably more lifted and fine-boned than many would expect from this corner of the Côte de Beaune. The 2023 vintage has played its part as well: despite warm harvest conditions, the wines retain freshness, clarity and balance, with the moderate alcohols prized by Burgundy purists.

This is a Pinot of understated strength, offering precise red fruit, a gentle savoury note and a well-judged structure that suggests graceful development over the medium term. It’s not designed to impress through sheer power, but through nuance, texture and a quietly lingering finish. As with all PYCM reds, production is very limited, making this a compelling example of how elegant and expressive Monthélie can be when approached with such care and precision.