Jacques Lassaigne is a family-run estate spanning 4.7 hectares in the village of Montgueux, planted entirely to Chardonnay and benefiting from prime south-eastern exposure. Historically, Montgueux was regarded as the “Montrachet of Champagne,” with vineyards situated near the gates of Troyes, the former capital of Champagne. Although technically part of the Aube department, Montgueux lies much farther north than the Côte des Bar, an area more commonly associated with Pinot Meunier. Its terroir is in fact remarkably similar to that of Le Mesnil, sharing the same limestone vein—an exceptional foundation for producing world-class Champagne. Wines from Montgueux are typically defined by a firm backbone of acidity, yet its slightly more southerly position than the Côte des Blancs allows for reliable ripening.

Emmanuel Lassaigne, Jacques’ son and the current steward of the domaine, began working the vineyards in 1999 and quickly made the unconventional decision to vinify individual parcels separately. At the time, this approach was met with skepticism from his neighbors, but Emmanuel has remained steadfast, making nearly all key decisions on his own. His winemaking is marked by bold experimentation and long-term vision, accepting that the true impact of any change may not be fully understood for many years.

All fermentations begin with native yeasts in tank or barrel, and sulfur is used sparingly—only at pressing to guard against oxidation, with none added thereafter. Emmanuel also disgorges every bottle by hand, a rare practice in Champagne where mechanized disgorgement is standard. He developed his own precise timing method to avoid topping up after disgorgement, further underscoring his singular, meticulous approach.

While some champagne houses release a vintage cuvée only when conditions are what they deem best, Emmanuel makes a vintage cuvée every single year, to display the variation each year brings to the wines. He says the results often surprise even him, certain vintages he thought the wine was lackluster, but when he revisits that wine several years down the road he discovers the wine just needed time to come into its own and is in fact one of his favorites. 

This vintage champagne reflects the unique character of 2016. On the nose, complex aromas of dried fruit, brioche, and a hint of candied citrus unfold. The palate is rich and structured, with fine effervescence and a beautiful, lingering finish. A gastronomic champagne, perfect for pairing with elaborate dishes such as truffle risotto or roast poultry.